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In which direction should you shave your beard?
Joining us today is Juan Valdivia, a barber specializing in classic shaving and a trainer at Beardburys. He makes it clear from the outset: knowing which direction to shave your beard is not an insignificant detail; it is the basis for a clean, comfortable shave without subsequent skin problems.
Many customers don't think about it, but for barbers it's almost a sacred rule. The direction of shaving determines whether the result will be flawless or whether it will end in irritation, redness, or ingrown hairs.
“The secret to a good shave is not only in the tool, but in following the natural direction of the hair,” says Juan as he prepares the razor. And, of course, having the right tools is key. If you're looking for precision and smoothness, here you can see our professional barber shavers.
Why the direction of shaving is important
Before talking about techniques or products, it is important to understand why. The direction in which you shave your beard directly influences the health of your skin and the final finish.
Juan sums it up very clearly:
- Less irritation: shaving in the direction of growth prevents the blade from straining the skin.
- Fewer ingrown hairs: following the natural direction reduces the risk of hair becoming trapped under the skin.
- Better shave texture: the result is more even, smooth, and clean.
- Essential for sensitive skin: in these cases, respecting the direction is everything.
A good shave starts long before you pick up the razor.
How to identify the direction of hair growth
Before deciding how to shave your beard, you need to know the terrain. Every face is different, and every beard grows differently.
Juan emphasizes this point during his training sessions:
- Look closely at the hair: don't assume it grows the same way all over your face.
- Run your fingers gently over it: if you feel resistance, you're going against the grain.
- Be aware of tricky areas: the neck usually grows in the opposite direction to the cheeks.
Este “mapa facial” es básico. Sin él, incluso la mejor técnica falla.
Directions for shaving your beard according to the area of the face
Not all areas of the face are shaved the same way. Knowing the directions for shaving your beard according to each area is key to avoiding problems.
CHEEKS
In most cases, cheek hair grows downward.
The professional recommendation is clear:
- Always make the first pass in the direction of growth.
- Use long, gentle strokes without excessive pressure.
NECK
The most challenging area for most men.
In many cases, hair grows upwards or in irregular directions.
Juan's tips:
- Identify the direction well before you start.
- Use short, controlled strokes.
- Never force the skin.
CHIN AND MUSTACHE
Here, the hair is coarser and more unruly.
The professional recommendation is to proceed gradually:
- First pass with the grain.
- Second pass sideways if necessary.
- Avoid going directly against the grain from the start.
Is it advisable to shave against the grain?
The classic question that always comes up in barbershops.
The short answer: yes, but with some caveats.
Juan makes it very clear:
- Only after a first pass in the direction of hair growth.
- Only on tough skin.
- Never on sensitive skin or skin prone to irritation.
- Always with good lubrication and a blade in perfect condition.
This is where professional razor blades also come into play, as a dull blade increases the risk of irritation.
As a barber, knowing the client's skin is key to deciding whether against the grain is an option or not.
Professional techniques for a safe and clean shave
Beyond technique, there are a number of techniques that make the difference between a normal shave and a professional one.
Juan shares his basic routine:
- Never shave dry. Use quality cream, foam, or oil.
- Stretch the skin firmly, but without forcing it.
- Work with short, controlled strokes.
- Don't rush: shaving is not a race.
- Use tools designed for professional barbers, which cut without pulling.
- Always finish with a soothing product that closes the pores.
The combination of technique, direction, and tools is what guarantees a top result.
How to shave your beard at home: tips for teaching your client
Many customers want to replicate the barbershop experience at home. Here are the key points that you, as a professional, can recommend to them:
- Always make the first pass in the natural direction of growth.
- Don't press down on the razor; let it do its job.
- Change the blade frequently. A dull blade is the number one enemy.
- Map out the face before starting to know how to shave the beard in the right direction.
- Don't seek an extreme close shave at the expense of the skin.
- Educating the customer is also part of the service.
CONCLUSION
Juan sums it up perfectly as he says goodbye: “The direction of the shave is not a minor detail. It is the basis of good service, a clean finish, and a returning customer.”
Following the natural direction of the hair, treating the skin with respect, and working with the right tools makes the difference between an ordinary shave and a professional one.
If you want to offer flawless results without irritation, always rely on good techniques and professional barber razors designed for a precise and safe cut.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Should you always shave in the direction of hair growth?
In most cases, yes. It is the safest way to protect your skin.
When can you shave against the grain without irritation?
Only after a favorable pass and on resistant skins, with good lubrication.
How to identify coarse or difficult hair?
You can feel it to the touch and in the blade's resistance to cutting.
What should you do if ingrown hairs appear?
Apply heat, gently exfoliate, and avoid brushing against the grain for a while.
Which tool is best for sensitive skin?
A shaver with sharp blades, precise heads, and a smooth cut, designed for professional use.
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